I only break a mostly veg diet for select cravings. A necessary cheeseburger moment and Bistro Campagne’s Steak Frites are always top of my list. I’ve had everything on Bistro Campagne’s menu and I can say with certainty that they do everything very well, but the Steak Frites is like no other version in town.
Bistro Campagne has been open in Lincoln Square since 2002 and has always maintained a dedication to French bistro fare and an environment that makes everyone feel like a cherished regular. Founded by the late chef Michael Altenberg, a pioneer of the farm-to-table movement, the restaurant has always put a focus on fresh, sustainable ingredients prepared in simple classic ways. Now under the leadership of chef Adam Grandt who brings his own commitment to local, organic farms, there are many reasons why Bistro Campagne is the only restaurant in Chicago that I have returned to again and again since I first stepped inside its doors for years ago.
The priority on ingredients that are farmed and raised ethically and in environmentally friendly ways doesn’t stop at things with roots. The beef is sourced the exact same way with a mind towards lessening the negative impact that cattle can create on our planet and our bodies. Which helps when creating a comfort dish like Steak Frites. Bistro Campagne’s dish is a luxurious cocoon of red wine and beef. When served, the steak itself has a deep crusty sear but is tender to the point of barely having to chew. The frites are thin and crisp, which is the perfect texture to soak up the element that makes this dish a must order: the Bordelaise sauce and Maitre d’hotel butter. The sauce is rich and indulgent while the herbed butter cuts through with a bit of freshness.
There is no other dish or place in Chicago where you can enter a restaurant, bathed in warm lighting and dark wood paneling, and instantly transport yourself somewhere with such je ne sais quoi. This is your antidote to winter lingering hard.
Bistro Campagne, 4518 N. Lincoln Ave., is open Wednesday and Thursday 5:30pm to 8:30pm last seating; Friday and Saturday 5pm to 9pm last seating; and Sunday 5pm to 8:30pm last seating. For more information or to make a reservation, visit bistrocampagne.com.