Written by Elizabeth Deneff
Noriko, a handroll bar that opened its doors to patrons this past February, is taking Chicago by storm. Located in Fulton Market under Perilla Fare, the restaurant is intimate and dimly lit, offering guests a romantic and moody ambiance. Noriko specializes in handrolls, otherwise called temaki sushi, which are cone-shaped sushi rolls that are held together on the outside by dried nori and meant to be eaten with hands, not chopsticks. Noriko vows that no matter if someone is a seasoned sushi lover or a first-timer, each bite “promises a burst of exquisite flavor and inventive twists.” On top of having an elite sushi menu, Noriko also offers guests a wide selection of cocktails and drinks, including Japanese-specific spirits and different sake options.
So, who’s behind the magic of Noriko? As expected by the high-quality sushi they produce, there is a dedicated and quite impressive team at Noriko, including Chefs Rhan Whang and Billy Lim.
Chef Billy Lim picked up sushi from working part-time in a small sushi restaurant in suburban Illinois. He recalls watching two chefs work under a spotlight, decked out in all white, in a dimly lit room and putting on a show for the guests as they crafted their meals.
Going back to the beginning, Chef Billy Lim’s love for the culinary arts comes from his parents. His dad introduced him to Western food, like sloppy joes, nachos—the works—while his mother would make a mean bulgogi sandwich, adding a fried egg in between the two slices of milk bread with Hellman's mayonnaise. Chef Lim proudly recollects how his mother’s depiction of Korean food became his standard for well-executed, home-cooked Korean dishes.
Now, if anyone has state of the art restaurant recommendations, it would be a chef, right? Luckily, Chef Billy Lim walks us through some of his favorite Chicago spots (along with a special non-Chicago shoutout—keep an eye out if you ever find yourself in Tokyo—and let me tell you, Chef Billy Lim did not hold back. Below he tells us his favorite breakfast sandwich (spoiler alert—it’s at a steakhouse), as well as his favorite sushi snack and more.
It's first thing in the morning, coffee or tea? And who does your favorite brew?
I'm a sucker for matcha lattes. Love the earthy, herbaceousness of just matcha! Brews are usually done by SBUX.
For the most important meal of the day aka breakfast, where do you go and what do you order?
Hands down, Perilla Steakhouse. Incredibly well-executed breakfast program with one of the best breakfast sammies!
Are you a grab-and-go lunch eater or a slow sit-down type? What's your place and order?
I'm for either! Quick = a Club sub at JP Grazianos or D'Amatos with hot giardiniera. Slow = So Gong Dong in Glenview for some ripping hot Silken Tofu Stew
Afternoon pick me up? Snack? Caffeine or happy hour? Where is your favorite spot to jump start the evening?
Afternoon pick me up would be a bento box or sushi roll from Cocoro. They're a small business that’s been around for a while doing simple sushi, no frills/thrills. Just good, well-executed japanese food
Dinner time, what place or meal brings your day to a close the right way?
My mom's spicy Korean beef stew. It's unctuous, has so much depth of spices and aromatics that take your soul to a whole other level!
A favorite meal of mine was in Japan at this small sake bar called, EUREKA!. Unassuming, but the chef team and bar program was so memorable. I can't wait to go visit and experience it again.
Elizabeth Deneff is a writer living in Lincoln Park. She graduated with both her bachelor's and master's degrees from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. She grew up writing stories, some that spanned only a couple pages and others that spanned hundreds. Over the past year, she has rediscovered her passion for writing, and has been searching for outlets for said passion. Coincidentally, she is also a big foodie; she loves going out to eat and trying new things. Being able to write about Chicago cuisine allows her to combine two of her greatest joys, all centered around her favorite city.
Support arts and culture journalism today. This work doesn't happen without your support. Contribute today and ensure we can continue to share the latest reviews, essays, and previews of the most anticipated arts and culture events across the city.
