Written by Elizabeth Deneff.
Just off one of the busiest streets that passes through Lincoln Park, Spoko resides on a quaint neighborhood corner a block off Armitage Avenue. With beautiful outdoor seating that catches your eye the moment you arrive, Spoko is the neighborhood restaurant that keeps you coming back.
Opened by husband-and-wife Chefs Art Wnorowski and Gosia Pieniazek, Spoko is not their first rodeo. The couple opened their first restaurant in Wicker Park in 2009. Lokal gained popularity quickly due to its bottomless brunches and DJ parties. After opening Lokal, Art and Gosia went on to open several other eateries, such as Earl's BBQ, a Southern-inspired barbecue restaurant in Jefferson Park, as well as the late Mas Tacos and Ella’s BBQ. Other than Spoko, which opened its doors on February 26, Art and Gosia also recently opened Pierogi Kitchen, which was featured in Chicago Magazine’s Top 25 Best Dishes 2024 for its kielbasa platter. They also opened Wurst Behavior, a sausage house in Irving Park that has kielbasa, brats, dogs, and more on its menu.
With the opening of Spoko, their third Polish restaurant, Art and Gosia began their own hospitality group—Na Zdrowie Hospitality—which focuses on merging authentic Polish bites with Chicago traditions.
Walking up to Spoko, I was immediately greeted by not only the warmth of the staff but also the sunny patio, delicately placed adjacent to the restaurant. Several of the tables were occupied by animated guests, but what really caught my eye was the large group standing at the edge of the patio, engrossed in conversation as they wrapped up their evening. There’s something so heartwarming about witnessing people not being able to leave, both their friends but also a place. I’m always going to be a sucker for a neighborhood gem, and within minutes I knew that Spoko was exactly that.
As my boyfriend and I settled into the patio and basked in the sun, I knew we were in for a treat. Upon first glance at the Spoko menu, a few dishes caught my eye. As a lifelong prosciutto fan, I knew that I had to try the prosciutto zapi, which was also one of the first recommendations by our server. As I’ve gotten older, my flavor palette has begun to broaden (thank God, as my mother would say), and I’ve started incorporating vegetables into my meals, willingly. However, don’t worry—they typically have to be burnt to a crisp. I blame (but also thank) my partner for this; he loves popping some broccoli florets into the oven, after he drizzles a little bit too much oil on them, and cooking them long enough that almost every one has a bit of crunch. So, naturally, when I saw that Spoko’s menu had crispy brussel sprouts, I knew we had to try those as well.
With a menu as alluring at Spoko’s, it was difficult to decide what other items we should try. We opted for the parm beef brisket maczanka because I can’t pass up something that’s dipped in something else, whether that’s bone broth, spicy mayo, or the plethora of other sauces we’re blessed as humans to be able to witness. And of course, for our last pick, we chose to try the potato and cheese pierogi because there is no way I’m passing on a pierogi at a Polish restaurant.
The first dish we tried was the crispy brussel sprouts, and they did not disappoint. They were the perfect level of crispy, but not burnt, and the apple cider gastrique (another fabulous sauce) paired perfectly. The portion was also considerable, so we had plenty left over for dinner the next night.
The next item that came out were the pierogis. This dish was the star of the night for me. The dough exterior was incredibly soft and melted perfectly in my mouth with the flawless potato and cheese blend. The flavor was incredibly rich, but not too rich, as I could’ve eaten all six by myself if I wanted (and trust me, it was hard to share). The sour cream on the side was great to have to offset the richness of the potato and cheese interior, and the caramelized onions were the perfect garnish. This dish is a must for whoever finds themselves at Spoko.
Next, the prosciutto zapi came out. Zapis are open faced handheld baguettes. To be honest, I was a little nervous, as the prosciutto zapi not only had prosciutto but also mushrooms, which are one of my least favorite foods. However, I am no longer the picky child that shied away from whole dishes if they had one ingredient that I was averse to, and the moment I had one bite of the zapi, I knew I had made the correct decision. Being able to enjoy a dish with one of your least favorite foods within it, especially enjoy it as much as I did, in my opinion, is one of the greatest testaments of how talented a chef is. The mushrooms and onions were mixed into the melted swiss atop the baguette, sprinkled with thin pieces of prosciutto, arugula, crumbly gorgonzola, figs, and truffle honey aioli. With each bite, the flavors melted in my mouth, mingling to create beautiful, savory goodness.
Last, but definitely not least, the last dish we tried was the parm beef brisket maczanka. This was my boyfriend’s favorite dish, which he mentioned multiple times. We are both lovers of pulled meat sandwiches, and this one did not disappoint. The beef brisket was flavorful and juicy, and while the sandwich was dipped in bone broth, it was just the right amount. In between the two slices of soft yet slightly warmed bread, the beef brisket was mixed with lettuce, sambal, fresh grated parmesan, truffle honey aioli, and herb oil, all to make a wonderful concoction of flavor that electrifies the tongue. To make matters even better, it tasted just as great when warmed up the next day for lunch.
Ultimately, Spoko is a gift to the Lincoln Park neighborhood. Chef Art Wnorowski and Gosia Pieniazek have created something quite special. Spoko is a tasty, cozy execution of Polish cuisine, and I am eagerly looking forward to my return.
Elizabeth Deneff is a writer living in Lincoln Park. She graduated with both her bachelor's and master's degrees from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. She grew up writing stories, some that spanned only a couple pages and others that spanned hundreds. Over the past year, she has rediscovered her passion for writing, and has been searching for outlets for said passion. Coincidentally, she is also a big foodie; she loves going out to eat and trying new things. Being able to write about Chicago cuisine allows her to combine two of her greatest joys, all centered around her favorite city.
Support arts and culture journalism today. This work doesn't happen without your support. Contribute today and ensure we can continue to share the latest reviews, essays, and previews of the most anticipated arts and culture events across the city.
