This review was written by Mackenzie Sinta.
Sunda New Asian is no stranger to reimagining traditional Southeast Asian cuisine. The restaurant group is highly regarded for its refreshing flavors and bold dishes. Chef Mike Morales and founder Billy Dec have curated a limited-time selection of menu offerings designed to highlight Lunar New Year traditions and celebrate the culture surrounding the annual event.
Rooted in Chinese tradition, Lunar New Year is a celebration of abundance and good fortune. Guided by the zodiac calendar, this year’s festivities began February 17, ushering in the Year of the Horse—a symbol of vitality and confidence for the months ahead. Across Southeast Asia, the holiday is observed in many ways, yet one practice transcends borders: gathering around a communal table.
My boyfriend and I dined at Sunda to participate in an evening of good fortune. The atmosphere at the Fulton Market location is dark and romantic, with accents of earthy green plants and warm hues of brown. The space was full the entire evening, with patrons from many different walks of life—families celebrating a 13th birthday, happy hour goers, business diners—all enjoying the shared experience of a delicious meal. The service at Sunda was spectacular. I was particularly struck by the staff's passion for storytelling, sharing the symbolism behind each dish of the Lunar New Year menu, reinforcing the cultural intention behind the offerings.
After a long work week, the espresso martini flight was the perfect pick-me-up. Each martini was made with Mr. Black Coffee Liqueur, which is a promising sign that the caffeinated cocktail will be a hit. The flight included a classic, chocolate chili, and ube martini. The chili martini, made with mezcal, had a leathery smoothness and a smoky finish. A sweet compliment to the spicy chili, the ube martini was so divine and balanced, you would have never known the beverage was alcoholic.
The appetizer course featured two items: Cumin Lamb Dumplings and Prawn Rangoons. Dumplings are a common menu item throughout the Lunar New Year. We learned that the shape of the dumpling is meant to resemble Chinese ingots and represent good fortune. These bundles of goodness delivered a spicy punch and a tender lamb filling. Each dumpling was dressed with a complimentary pickled lotus root that added a crisp, acidic balance to the bite. The dish came with five dumplings, which is the perfect amount for a date night appetizer.
The second feature, Prawn Rangoon, re-imagined the classic crab rangoon—a fried outer shell, stuffed with crab, chives, and cream cheese. Prawns symbolize happiness and the Cantonese translation of prawn, ‘ha’, affectionately resembles our reaction when three jumbo prawns arrived at our table with their little faces intact. While there was plenty of meat, the classic rangoon flavor was missing. Luckily, the accompanying sweet and sour dipping sauce rounded out the dish, bringing the familiar rangoon taste alive.
Our second course featured the Ocean of Good Fortune and Lobster Lo Mein. Fish are a staple in Lunar New Year menus as they represent abundance and prosperity. The Ocean of Good Fortune is a pan-seared branzino, accompanied by ginger scallions, chili sambal, watercress, and radish. The presentation of this dish was particularly striking, a whole fish with distinctly opposing sides. The ginger scallion spread was bright green and refreshing, while the chili sambal packed a red spicy heat. I couldn’t help but appreciate the use of colors, a universal language, using red to represent fire and evil, and green for wealth and prosperity, a subtle nod to the intention of the Lunar New Year.
The Lobster Lo Mein was cradled by a lobster shell, which was necessary to hold the abundance of noodles. Simple and decadent, the dish featured fresh lo mein noodles, meaty chunks of lobster, and a yuzu truffle butter. Both lobster and truffles love to be the center of attention, often overpowering a dish, but here, the truffle butter is a delicate compliment to the lobster meat. During this course, I also sipped on a recommended glass of Sancerre wine, which heightened all the flavors of these dishes.
Our Lunar New Year experience was elevated with a Dragon Dance performance. Dating back to the Han dynasty, the Dragon Dance is believed to ward off evil spirits and invite good luck. The dragon is often presented as a large puppet, decorated with bright colors and lights, as several dancers guide the performance. Two illuminated dragons graced the aisles of the restaurant, moving to the rhythm of traditional drums. Many diners also “fed” the dragons slices of oranges, another symbol of prosperity.
Our evening concluded with a Sesame Cake dessert, dressed with macerated strawberries, sweet vanilla ice cream, and a crunchy sesame peanut brittle. The cake featured a bold nuttiness that was heightened by the subtle vanilla ice cream. Each bite has a dynamic texture, with all of the elements of the dish working together. Crowning the dish, the sesame peanut brittle deliveres an earthy crunch and cleverly doubles as a spoon for scooping up every bit of deliciousness.
Our night at Sunda was a masterclass in blending cultural tradition with modern dining, delivering exceptional food and a meaningful sense of renewal.
The Lunar New Year menu at Sunda is available through March 3. It is available at both Sunda locations: 333 N Green Stand 110 W Illinois St. Reservations are recommended and available here: sundanewasian.com.
Mackenzie Sinta is a media executive with a background in theater directing and arts education, chasing the city’s best shows and culinary experiences.
This coverage was made possible by a promotional invitation. Our opinions and editorial choices remain entirely our own.
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