Ah, Paris in the spring. Or at least Chicago’s Parisian restaurant La Grande Boucherie during false spring as well as Easter, or Pâques, en français. Spanning two floors over 10,000 square feet in a charming Belle Époque building, this River North brasserie-meets-steakhouse offers seating for almost 400 with several quaint zones for sipping and dining. The 50-seat patio will open for outdoor dining in late April or May—perhaps a good spot to celebrate Bastille Day on July 14, on a Tuesday when there are no corkage fees.
The restaurant also has outlets in New York, Miami, and Washington, DC. General manager Matthew Stannah noted that the Midtown NYC location usually serves about 3,000 covers a day, mostly to tourists. Chicago’s patrons are mostly local, who return to eat time and again as a “home away from home,” as Stannah proudly shares. The Windy City’s building design features custom mosaic floors and decorative bas-relief plaster work that looks period but is new. There are 25-foot-tall stained-glass windows, plus a 100-year-old Parisian glass mural that survived German bombardment during World War II. Also imported from France is an 82-foot-long racetrack pewter bar, crafted using legacy metalworking techniques, making this newer construction feel historic and supportive of the French culinary techniques on offer.
Executive chef Michael Taus, from a family of cooks including a Sicilian grandmother, has curated a comprehensive, but not overwhelming, French menu. It includes hors d’oeuvres, charcuterie and fromage boards, piece du boucher, a steak program that includes some Wagyu and dry-aged meat selections, plus some grands formats for two to six diners, plats principaux with garniture choices, as well as a bar à huîtres, some oyster offerings.
The signature cocktail menu also offers French twists on classics like martinis and Manhattans, along with a good selection of French wines and absinthe concoctions. I went Mexican with the Phoenix, a tangy and easy-sipping mixture of Del Maguey mezcal, lime, Cholula, and grapefruit soda with a Tajín rim. The same mezcal was featured in the La Lorelei drink too, mixed with Cointreau, crème de violette, and absinthe with a flower on top, providing a rich, licorice (by way of green anise and fennel) moment. Of course, when in Paris, also try the real champagne, not just sparkling wine, either by Lallier or Drappier.
The traditional French offerings are superb, from the warm, crispy, and fresh baguette pieces with creamy herb butter to the traditional French onion soup, a crock full of gooey and good-greasy comfort food. The light and bright Niçoise salad features fresh and firm Ahi tuna, baby oak greens, haricot verts (green beans), potatoes, olives, anchovies, and egg sprinkled with a red wine vinaigrette. For unselfish shellfish fans, try the generous pile of mussels dijonnaise, a heaping bowl with garlic, shallots, lemon, and light mustard cream, with a petite baguette on top for sopping up those luscious juices.
The dessert menu is equally decadent, compiled by executive pastry chef Jean-Baptiste Scordel and the team. It features a tarte au pamplemousse, Basque cheesecake, and a rich and substantial mousse au chocolat with fresh berries on top.
La Grande Boucherie features cognacs on Sundays, martinis on Mondays, and limitless mimosas of orange, cranberry, grapefruit, and pineapple (or Bellinis or Aperols) for $25 per person during brunch. A $29 Prix Fixe lunch is offered Mondays through Fridays from 12 pm to 4 pm, and Happy Hour runs Tuesdays through Saturdays from 4 pm to 7 pm. The Easter specials include green asparagus hollandaise au citron for $21; spring braised lamb with green peas, pommes fondants, and mint chiffonade for $40; and a riz au lait au chocolat for $16, a dark chocolate rice pudding with cocoa nibs, shaved dark chocolate, orange zest, and Valrhona chocolate sauce.
Other eateries also offering special Easter Sunday menus and deals on April 5 include The Smith, with dishes like vanilla bean French toast and caramelized apples; Il Mio with rich lemon ricotta pancakes; Pan-Latin Toro Chicago offers churrasco and eggs; Middle Eastern-inspired Sifr cooks a chermoula-brushed branzino; Ox Bar & Hearth features a Spring Benedict with house pork shoulder ham, poached eggs, spinach and brown butter hollandaise; Casa Chi by Chef Richard Sandoval hosts a Boozy Tea event; Rose Mary opens reservations for a $55 per person brunch with the restaurant’s signature blend of Italian and Croatian influences; BLVD Steakhouse is reopening their Atrium with holiday sips like Hugo Spritz with elderflower and sparkling wine; Rosemont’s CIMA delivers a classic honey-glazed ham, mashed potatoes, pan gravy, blistered green beans and green onion cheddar biscuit; and you'll find specials from my favorite, Farm Bar, with both Lake View and Ravenswood locations.
La Grande Boucherie is located at 431 N. Dearborn and is open Mondays through Thursdays 12 pm to 11 pm; Fridays from 12 pm to 11:30 pm; Saturdays from 11 am to 11:30 pm; and Sundays from 11 am to 11 pm. Group events are offered for lunch, brunch, and dinner. Reservations are recommended and can be made through OpenTable and Resy, or by calling 312-624-3014.
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