In October 2003, Donnie Madia and Paul Kahan of 12-time James Beard Award-winning One Off Hospitality opened Avec in the West Loop, first conceived as a wine bar to assuage overflow from Blackbird restaurant next door (after all, avec means “with” in French). That original space is known for the cedar-planked interior and chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped medjool dates, as well as salted cod brandade, "deluxe" focaccia, and yogurt-braised pork shoulder from Slago Farms.
In 2017, a second-floor private event space opened, and in 2021, a larger River North location was added at 141 West Erie, featuring an expanded, mostly wood-fired menu (about 80 to 95 percent). Starting as an intern in 2015, Chef Dylan Patel is now the executive chef at all Avec locations. Madia was featured in season 2, episode 3 of The Bear, where he advises aspiring sous chef Syd during her search to deepen her Chicago culinary inspirations.
The River North Avec is light and bright, with blonde wood floors, cozy tables, and a series of high tops facing the wide-open flame-fueled kitchen. The cuisine is Mediterranean and French-inspired with Midwestern interpretations, and the cocktail menu shows some punk rock inspiration, featuring drinks like Lust for Life (Jin Jiji Darjeeling gin, grapefruit, vanilla cordial, lime) and I Want to be Sedated (Old Forester Bourbon, house date dram, walnut bitters, clove).
The Ibisco d’Amorita is a lovely-colored, garnished hibiscus-infused Libelula tequila, Mallorca melon, Urfa pepper, and lime, not too sweet, light and flavorful. The Side to Side is a smoky and satisfying Banhez mezcal, with Aperol, habanero tincture, lime and grapefruit Jarritos (grapefruit is a refreshing leitmotif throughout this Chicago Restaurant Week Prix Fixe menu). The Santome Brut Prosecco was fruity, as was the Blue Velvet cocktail, a summery mix of Planteray 3 Stars rum, Xaymaca (“Jamaica”) rum, Quaglia fernet, blueberry almond shrub, ginger honey, witbier, and lemon. A few drinks contain nuts, so nut-sensitive diners should order with care.
For Chicago Restaurant Week, running through February 8, Avec is offering a $60 per person dinner menu (beverages, tax, and gratuity not included). Course 1 offers Norwegian cured ocean trout crudo with roasted sesame tahina, pickled chestnut mushrooms, and toasted pine nuts. Serving sizes are compact to concentrate the clean and complementary flavors and textures, incorporating the fresh fish, meaty mushrooms, and nutty spices into each bite. The marinated kale salad is equally bright and flavorful, sporting satsuma orange slices, marinated cherry tomatoes, and Manchego sheep’s milk cheese. Many Avec dishes cleverly smear the sauces on the plate, rather than drizzled on top, allowing the eater to curate flavor amount distribution, here with a tangy black garlic romesco.
Pistachio pesto infuses the campanelle pasta in Course 2 with a verdant green, also echoed in the fresh jalapeno slices and rapini mixed in. All pastas are handmade in-house. Course 3 features a succinct portion of wood oven-roasted Cornish hen, a delicate bird served with berbere spice blend plus marinated black and green olives. The hearth-baked pita on the side successfully mops up the chickpea hummus underpinning as well as the protein juices. The dessert course features cool and creamy Middle Eastern sahlab rice pudding, fragrant and crunchy from crumbled pistachios on top, as well as citrus pieces. Vegetarian and other dietary-based substitutions are available on request. That tasting menu also recommends pairing the meal with a French Syrah rose, and/or the Domaine de Fontsainte “Reserve” Grenache/Carignane.
Avec River North is offering a Galentine’s Brunch on Sunday, February 15, with bottomless mimosas and cocktail pitchers, pastries, and friendship bracelets. Bar Avec is slated to reopen in April this year (through October), a rooftop deck at 640 North LaSalle, 8th floor, featuring drinks and dishes, including happy hour food and vegetarian options.
Support arts and culture journalism today. This work doesn't happen without your support. Contribute today and ensure we can continue to share the latest reviews, essays, and previews of the most anticipated arts and culture events across the city.
